I’m not alone in wanting to test the outer limits of the potato’s versatility. One of my first moves in a new restaurant is to scan for “loaded fries” and see how the kitchen interprets the form. At ...

Few ingredients are as willing as the potato to become exactly what you want them to be. I’ve long taken it up on the offer. As a pre-teen, freshly sprung from an orthodontist’s chair, my idea of ...